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I got myself into helping a friend with a Johnson 55ESL69A motor. Trade off for my labor is boat time! It hasn't been run for 10 years from what we know. We've purchased the manual for it. Personally I don't know much of anything about outboards or motors in general. I am pretty mechanical and I did however have a strange attraction to it. All I can say is that it reminded me of my grandpa working on boat motors in the seventies. I actually guessed the year of it.
The plan is to (as cheaply as possible), see if it will or wants to run again. CHEAPLY! So far I've removed the decrepit engine harness and managed to splice and paste and patch some new wires into the decomposing mess and I mean MESS. (Plan to replace if seaworthy). Removed lower end and changed oil, have new diaphragm, plugs, impeller, O-ring, shaft seal in cover, rubber/foam seal on cover, 2 grommets, intake screen and exhaust seal. Discovered the trim tab is the anode and it had been painted over. Cleaned out the salt deposits from the openings. Checked fuel screen. Removed which I think was old sealant from numerous places. Forgot to include that I removed and inspected thermostat.
This is my plan. I'm getting ready to assemble and I have a few questions. There were no gaskets removed. Should there be any? I intend to use blue RTV to seal the steel plate to lower housing. Is it necessary to seal pump housing to the plate too? Do the grommets need to be adhesively placed? Which way do the grommets go? There is a chamfer inside, one end. I'm thinking chamfer up if the water tubes go down into the housing that far? Does the pump's cover need sealant when placed? Now the ridiculous guide tubes. Should they be adhesively placed? The actual metal water tubes look like they had some RTV on the tube ends. Do the ends get sealed? Does the lower end get any type of gasket or sealant when reattached to the motor? Also the bolts. What should I use when installing bolts? Anything in particular? I was intending to use the same blue RTV.
The motor came attached to a 17ft Hydro Swift boat (circa 1960) appears to be all original controls that are made for the motor. If anyone is familiar with this style motor and setup. Great! Because I don't know where to begin with 3 carburetor's. What else I should check, prior to trying to start. Almost forgot! I had a friend suggest and complete a compression check with readings #1 120psi, #2 120psi, #3 105psi. The last one did gradually rose from 95psi. The manual states no more than 5psi difference between cylinders. My friend said it may just be stuck. (rings?)
Any other suggestions to check or test prior to key start?? Thanx
The plan is to (as cheaply as possible), see if it will or wants to run again. CHEAPLY! So far I've removed the decrepit engine harness and managed to splice and paste and patch some new wires into the decomposing mess and I mean MESS. (Plan to replace if seaworthy). Removed lower end and changed oil, have new diaphragm, plugs, impeller, O-ring, shaft seal in cover, rubber/foam seal on cover, 2 grommets, intake screen and exhaust seal. Discovered the trim tab is the anode and it had been painted over. Cleaned out the salt deposits from the openings. Checked fuel screen. Removed which I think was old sealant from numerous places. Forgot to include that I removed and inspected thermostat.
This is my plan. I'm getting ready to assemble and I have a few questions. There were no gaskets removed. Should there be any? I intend to use blue RTV to seal the steel plate to lower housing. Is it necessary to seal pump housing to the plate too? Do the grommets need to be adhesively placed? Which way do the grommets go? There is a chamfer inside, one end. I'm thinking chamfer up if the water tubes go down into the housing that far? Does the pump's cover need sealant when placed? Now the ridiculous guide tubes. Should they be adhesively placed? The actual metal water tubes look like they had some RTV on the tube ends. Do the ends get sealed? Does the lower end get any type of gasket or sealant when reattached to the motor? Also the bolts. What should I use when installing bolts? Anything in particular? I was intending to use the same blue RTV.
The motor came attached to a 17ft Hydro Swift boat (circa 1960) appears to be all original controls that are made for the motor. If anyone is familiar with this style motor and setup. Great! Because I don't know where to begin with 3 carburetor's. What else I should check, prior to trying to start. Almost forgot! I had a friend suggest and complete a compression check with readings #1 120psi, #2 120psi, #3 105psi. The last one did gradually rose from 95psi. The manual states no more than 5psi difference between cylinders. My friend said it may just be stuck. (rings?)
Any other suggestions to check or test prior to key start?? Thanx