1973 Johnson sea horse 4hp

[Gregalis]

Hi I recently purchased a 1973 4hp Johnson sea horse got it running but never stayed running and I realized it wasn't pumping water so changed the impeller and saw that it was compromised... bought new plugs and then took apart carb cleaned it and bought new packing washers I just can't seem to keep it running. From what I found the needle valves need to be screwed all the way in then backed off one and a half turns is this correct? Also bought a new recoil and can't seem to get it to recoil back without manually doing it by hand so I used a drill and socket to get it started can anyone give me some guidance... just purchased new head gasket as I was told they are notorious for blowing the gasket

[Joe Reeves]

(Carburetor Adjustments - Two Adjustable N/Vs)
(J. Reeves)

Initial settings are: Bottom high speed = seat gently, then open 1 turn out. Top slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Setting the high and low needle valves properly:

NOTE: For engines that DO NOT have a shift selection, obviously there is no NEUTRAL position. Simply lower the rpms to the lowest setting to obtain the low speed needle valve adjustment.

(High Speed) Start engine (it will run pretty rough), shift into forward gear, take up to full throttle. In segments of 1/8 turn, waiting for the engine to respond between turns, start turning in the bottom high speed needle valve. You'll reach a point whereas the engine will either start to die out or spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the needle valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest setting.

(Low Speed) Slow the engine down to where it just stays running. Shift into neutral. Again in segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the top needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running. Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back. Again, at that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustments, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.
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(Manual Starter Cord Installation)
(This pertains to the vertical type of Manual Starters such as the 9.5hp and later 4.5/6/8hp models etc)
(J. Reeves)

1 - Have a pair of vice grips handy set so that they will grab the top of the starter spindle tightly but will not damage it.

2 - Using a large screwdriver inserted into the top of the starter spindle, wind the starter in a counter clockwise direction 12 to 14 turns, stopping so that the cord locking slot is facing the away from the engine.

3 - Lock the spindle in that position with the vice grips, letting the vice grips lay against the flywheel.

4 - Insert the cord as needed and make sure it is retained properly at that slot.

5 - Feed the cord out the starter cord hole at the front of the engine and attach the handle.

6 - Grip the cord tightly so that the spindle cannot spin around rapidly, then release the vice grips.

7 - Allow the cord to be withdrawn slowly around the spindle.

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(Manual Starter Cord/Spring Installation)
(This pertains to the side mount type manual starters such as the 4hp models)
(J. Reeves)

Have the rope/cord wound around the starter pulley in the proper direction and tuck the end of the cord under itself to lock it in place.

Assemble the manual starter to the engine, having the inner sping loop inserted over the related pin, BUT leave the starter spring UNWOUND and simply hanging thru the slot of the manual starter housing with the long length of the spring out side of the manual starter.

Now, using your ingenuity, rig some kind of device to force that plastic gear up into the flywheel teeth, jamming it so that it will stay engaged in those teeth.

It is now simply a matter of putting a wrench on the flywheel nut and turning it in the proper direction to pull that spring into the manual starter housing which will properly rewind it. After the spring has been pulled in completely, continue to crank it further until sufficient pressure is upon the spring. Usually three turns of the flywheel is enough.

Now, keep a firm grip on that small plastic gear so that the starter does not rewind. Using a sharp pointed scribe, pick the loose end of the starter cord free and run it out its proper exit, then attach the handle to it. That should do it.