88 48 hp SPL burnt primer solenoid

[chandler65]

Hope you guy's can help me sort this problem out.
Was gifted this Johnson, it's in great shape with good compression 150..I was told.
I've converted it to a tiller. I've got it to start but it floods everytime after a minute of running. Now, I get no "click" from the solenoid and it's melted at the entry of the terminals. I am also loosing spark. It's got a new power pack on it. When it starts it runs fine then quits.. i check for spark and nothing..
any thoughts?
Thanks!!

[Joe Reeves]

The only thing that will melt that fuel primer solenoid is a dead short OR having 12v applied to it on a constant steady basis.

Improper wiring at the ignition switch? Shorted ignition switch? There should be voltage applied to the "C" terminal of that ignition switch ONLY when the key is pushed in!

Losing spark on a NEW powerpack is not good! Improper wiring?

Do this... remove spark plugs.... rig a spark tester whereas you can set a spark gap of 7/16"... test for spark. If no spark, do the following test... do the test anyhow for peace of mind.

Voltage To Powerpack Failures
(Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
(J. Reeves)

The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

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[chandler65]

Great Info there Joe!!
Thanks for that.. question, the "C" terminal you mention.. is that the centre terminal on the key switch? If so.. that's my problem.. or atleast one of my problems.

[Joe Reeves]

Great Info there Joe!! Thanks for that.. question, the "C" terminal you mention.. is that the centre terminal on the key switch? If so.. that's my problem.. or atleast one of my problems.

Look directly at the back of the ignition switch, it is clearly marked:

Note: I'm using colors here that may not coincide on the 1988 model but at least you'll know what should be attached there.

M - Magneto - (Raised M) Black/Yellow wire.
M - Magneto - (Regular M) Black wire.
C - Choke/Fuel Primer Solenoid - Purple/White wire.
A - Accessory - Purple wire (Anything that 12v is to be applied to when the key is ON).
S - Starter solenoid - White wire.
B - Battery Voltage - Red/Purple wire.

[everonvietnam2016]

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