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70HP Motor Won't Fire (J70TLERV)

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  • 70HP Motor Won't Fire (J70TLERV)

    Boat last ran about year and half ago. Just about to get it ready for the water and won't fire. Will crank fine. What order would you start troubleshooting? Not sparking on any of the three plugs and power pack was replace about two years ago. How do you eliminate ignition switch and kill switch as possibles and is there a way to test the power pack. Can the power pack be bypassed temporarily to see if spark when motor is cranked. Where should I begin? Lastly, what is the exact repair manual that I can pick up for this motor. Saw a few listed on web. Thanks for any suggestions and help.

  • #2
    Quick test.... All s/plugs removed... rig up something to have the spark jump a 7/16" gap as using the s/plugs is a waste of time... disconnect the black/yellow wire from either the powerpack or the ignition switch. A more detailed test is at the end of this reply.

    Now, if you have spark with that wire disconnected BUT no spark with it connected, the usual cause is a shorted ignition switch, in which case, replace it.

    (Spark Tester - Home Made)
    (J. Reeves)

    You can use a medium size philips screwdriver (#2 I believe) inserted into the spark plug boot spring connector, then hold the screwdriver shank approximately 7/16" away from the block to check the spark or build the following:

    A spark tester can be made with a piece of 1x4 or 1x6, drive a few finishing nails through it, then bend the pointed ends at a right angle. You can then adjust the gap by simply twisting the nail(s). Solder a spark plug wire to one which you can connect to the spark plug boots, and a ground wire of some kind to the other to connect to the powerhead somewhere. Use small alligator clips on the other end of the wires to connect to ground and to the spark plug connector that exists inside of the rubber plug boot.

    Using the above, one could easily build a spark tester whereas they could connect 2, 4, 6, or 8 cylinders all at one time. The ground nail being straight up, the others being bent, aimed at the ground nail. A typical 4 cylinder tester follows:

    ..........X1..........X2

    .................X..(grd)

    ..........X3..........X4

    ***********************
    Voltage To Powerpack Failures
    (Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
    (J. Reeves)

    The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack. Test as follows.
    Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

    Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire and ground.

    With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

    Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

    If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

    Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

    Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

    Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

    joe_omc32 | eBay

    Comment


    • #3
      Thank you for the reply. My version of plug tester was having a plug connected to boot and a wire wrapped around the metal of the plug, with the other end of that wire tied to ground on the other side of the motor, I think down below the starter. Does that sound like it should work to you? I know where the black/yellow is on the switch but can't find it on the power pack. Got the blue CDI 113-4808. If I'm remembering correctly, I can see a black/yellow coming down the side of motor in a bundle that connects into the pack by way of a plug, but can't see anywhere that I can disconnect that particular wire at the pack. Was almost ready to just cut the darn thing and put back together but not enough room in the wire. I have two black and yellows on the switch with one of them being a jumper to the kill switch. Tried removing the jumper one and looking for spark but if my rig isn't appropriate will have to try again. Was able to confirm with meter that from the ignition switch jumper to kill switch seemed ok. I guess at least we've eliminated the kill switch? Will give your suggestions to my friend to try. He's an "auto" mechanic and wishes that this pontoon had an inboard.
      Last edited by bjimmie; 06-29-2016, 08:20 AM. Reason: typo

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by bjimmie View Post

        1 - My version of plug tester was having a plug connected to boot and a wire wrapped around the metal of the plug, with the other end of that wire tied to ground on the other side of the motor, I think down below the starter. Does that sound like it should work to you?

        2 - I know where the black/yellow is on the switch but can't find it on the power pack. Got the blue CDI 113-4808. If I'm remembering correctly, I can see a black/yellow coming down the side of motor in a bundle that connects into the pack by way of a plug, but can't see anywhere that I can disconnect that particular wire at the pack. Was almost ready to just cut the darn thing and put back together but not enough room in the wire. I have two black and yellows on the switch with one of them being a jumper to the kill switch. Tried removing the jumper one and looking for spark but if my rig isn't appropriate will have to try again. Was able to confirm with meter that from the ignition switch jumper to kill switch seemed ok. I guess at least we've eliminated the kill switch? Will give your suggestions to my friend to try. He's an "auto" mechanic and wishes that this pontoon had an inboard.
        1 = In a word... No! Either use the #2 philips screwdriver as I suggested, build the tester, or buy a spark tester at some auto parts store.

        2 = The Black/Yellow wire (kill Circuit) must be disconnected from both the ignition switch and also the kill switch in order to test the spark.

        I'm not familiar with that "blue" powerpack. It should have a Black/Yellow wire leading from it to the wiring harness... BUT... if not, the wire (kill circuit) may be plain Black OR Black with a White stripe. At any rate it would be the only wire leading from the powerpack to the wiring harness.

        Caution your auto mechanic friend to be sure NOT to allow any voltage to be applied to any portion of that engine's ignition system.

        Comment


        • #5
          Thanks and will do. Just for the heck of it went ahead and ordered a new power pack and a new stator regardless of what my problem might be. My cousin who was previous owner swears that he has put two power packs in while he had the boat. Something had to be ruining those packs so I decided to replace the stator as well to be safe. Will be checking the regulator as well.

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by bjimmie View Post
            My cousin who was previous owner swears that he has put two power packs in while he had the boat.

            Something had to be ruining those packs
            Here (below) is the usual cause of powerpack failures!

            Voltage To Powerpack Failures
            (Magneto Capacitance Discharge Systems)
            (J. Reeves)

            The usual cause of having those type powerpacks fail repeatedly is having a very small of voltage applied to the Black/Yellow wire (Kill Circuit) at the pack.

            Test as follows.
            Disconnect the Black/Yellow wire at the powerpack.

            Insert either a ampere meter or a volt meter set to its lowest DC voltage reading between that Black Yellow wire (the one leading to the ignition switch) and ground.

            With the ignition key in the OFF position, observe the meter reading. Now turn the ignition key to the ON position and again observe the meter reading.

            Any reading, movement of the meter needle, even a microvolt, would indicate that battery voltage is being applied to that Black/Yellow wire. If a reading is present, remove the other end of that Black/Yellow from the raised terminal of the ignition switch.

            If the reading ceases to exist when the Black/Yellow wire is removed from the ignition switch, replace the switch. If the reading continues to exist, there would be a short of some kind in either the engine or instrument wiring harness.... to determine which, simply unplug the large RED electrical plug at the engine which would eliminate the instrument cable.

            Note that the black/yellow wire must not have any other wire attached to it for the following reason!

            Keep in mind that any accessory that has 12 volts running to it, especially when turned on, will have voltage flowing thru it and trailering out thru its black ground wire to complete the circuit. If that accessory has it's black ground wire attached to the "M" terminal that the black/yellow wire is attached to.... you will have voltage flowing directly to the powerpack.

            Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

            joe_omc32 | eBay
            ********************

            Comment

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