64 Johnson 40hp no spark lower cylinder

[nick5oh]

Picked up this motor last year and finally got it mounted on the back of the boat. It's a 1964 Johnson 40 hp. Wired up the starter trigger wire to the ignition switch, the battery wire to the ign switch, and the heavy cables to the battery and the starter motor. All other wiring has not been done yet.
Engine cranks very well and the motor has good compression. It hasn't been run in a while and was winterized after it last ran. The upper cylinder has very good spark, the wires are new and the plugs are new. The lower cylinder will not spark at all and it is not the plug as I have swapped it to the upper cylinders ignition wire and it sparks.
There are two wires that come from under the flywheel area, one with an eyelid connector and one with a harness connector that has a short length of wire and an eyelid connector on it. If I use a meter on them they beep as in they are connected to each other. I know a little about the cut out switch and safety switch on the motor but don't know if I need them for the lower cylinder to fire spark? I have searched google a bunch and found info related to that cutout switch killing spark to the lower cylinder. Is there a way I can bypass the cutout switch and safety switch? I want to get the engine running but she won't fire that lower cylinder. The motor should run without the safety and cutout switches should it not? The cutout switch is an open circuit right now with the meter on the terminals, but there are no wires to it as I do not know exactly how to hook them up and if they are even needed to run the engine. My father and I have a Johnson manual from a 1963 model and I assume the wiring is the same or similar. If it is the same we will wire everything the way it should be done properly but we want to run the motor and make sure it's ok first before we completely rewire the boat.
Thanks for all the help guys and I look forward to all the info on this forum

[Joe Reeves]

The 1963 and 1964 wiring setup should be identical "IF" both have the same type shift arrangement (electric or mechanical). Obviously shift wires are needed for the electric shift models.

If you have the cutout switch disconnected temporarily, it's out of the circuit and cannot interfere with the ignition. It's purpose it to short out one cylinder when you close the throttle suddenly should you shear a propeller drive pin, loose a propeller, have a driveshaft snap, that sort of thing whereas the engine would immediately scream away at a extremely high rpm. Without the cutout switch, you would have a runaway engine with no way to close it down before connecting rods come flying through the side of the crankcase.

Those two black wires lead to the points... connected together via a push button or ignition switch would short out and turn the ignition off.

Switch the coils to see if the "no fire" problem follows the non firing coil.

The flywheel nut on that engine MUST be torqued to 105 foot pounds, otherwise the flywheel key will shear.

[nick5oh]

Thanks for the info!
Flywheel must come off can I use a common automotive puller or is this a special animal needed? I guess when in in there I can check and clean up the points too which wouldn't hurt.

[nick5oh]

One more thing....is there some sort of kit I can buy that has points coils and condensors? Or are they all separate items? Also where can I source the parts if I find I do need to replace something?

[Joe Reeves]

One more thing....is there some sort of kit I can buy that has points coils and condensors? Or are they all separate items? Also where can I source the parts if I find I do need to replace something?

A ignition kit should be available at various marine websites, forums, dealerships, marine type stores.

The puller must be the type that uses three bolts which screw into the three threaded holes in the flywheel surrounding the flywheel nut.

(Magneto & Driver Coil Alignment)
(J. Reeves)

To align the coils properly, have the metal vertical portion of the coil yokes aligned with the inside edge of the bevel that exists on the top portion of the aluminum seat upon which the coils sit. This creates the proper distance between the coils and the flywheel magnets. Faulty alignment creates friction and the yokes of the coils heat up, turn blue and expand.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:
joe_omc32 | eBay

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(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

[nick5oh]

Thanks for all the info buddy. I will see what I come up with this weekend when I get a chance to work on it. If anything arises I will get back to you. Thanks again

[nick5oh]

Got the flywheel off, found out that the coils, points and condensors are all new as well as the plug wires.
Cleaned the points up and she finally started! Took a while to get it to stay running, but I guess it needs some adjustments. The lever for fast/slow/start seems a bit off.
Have a couple new questions but I'll start a new thread

[Joe Reeves]

Better to stick with this thread, at least until you get past the ignition problem.

(Point Setting Of Magneto Models)
(J. Reeves)

Set the points as follows. Have the flywheel key aligned with the fiber rubbing portion of the ignition points. Adjust the gap so that a .020 gauge will pass thru but a .022 will not. Should there be any question of the points being dirty (touching the contact with your finger would cause them to be dirty), clean them with a small brush and acetone or lacquer thinner.

NOTE 1: Should the operating cam have a small portion on it with the word "SET" imprinted, align this portion with the fiber rubbing portion instead of the flywheel key.

NOTE 2: Should the cam have the word TOP embossed on the top of it, that is a cam that could be installed upside down and this is simply telling you which side is up. It is not a position where one would set the points.

Thousands of parts in my remaining stock. Not able to list them all. Let me know what you need and I'll look it up for you. Visit my eBay auction at:

http://shop.ebay.com/Joe_OMC32/m.htm..._sop=12&_rdc=1
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(Carburetor Adjustment - Single S/S Adjustable Needle Valve)
(J. Reeves)

Initial setting is: Slow speed = seat gently, then open 1-1/2 turns.

Start engine and set the rpms to where it just stays running. In segments of 1/8 turns, start to turn the S/S needle valve in. Wait a few seconds for the engine to respond. As you turn the valve in, the rpms will increase. Lower the rpms again to where the engine will just stay running.

Eventually you'll hit the point where the engine wants to die out or it will spit back (sounds like a mild backfire). At that point, back out the valve 1/4 turn. Within that 1/4 turn, you'll find the smoothest slow speed setting.

When you have finished the above adjustment, you will have no reason to move them again unless the carburetor fouls/gums up from sitting, in which case you would be required to remove, clean, and rebuild the carburetor anyway.