1997 175 HP Oceanrunner v6 only firing 3 cylinders

[carboman]

Hi,

New to the forum, but have some good experience on smaller outboards.

I have a 1997 V6 175HP ocean runner. All of the sudden, it only fires the starboard side 3 cylinders. No spark at all on the 3 port side cylinders.

I figured it was the power pack, so I replaced that, the voltage regulator and all three coils. Same issue. Pretty sure this is not an optical sensor engine (OIS), but could it be something with a sensor under the timing wheel cover?

I'm open to all suggestions.

Thanks,

Dave

[carboman]

The fix is in!

Part number: 0585141
When not depressed the engine fires on the starboard side 3 cylinders only.
When depressed, the engine fires on all 6.
It's a circuit that cuts power to the lower unit (mechanical torque) when shifting between forward and reverse to save your gears.
I still need to adjust the linkage so this works correctly but it does work by way of the hand.

[Solarman]

It may be called a shift sensor, it limits RPMs when not in gear to 3k. This prevents people from over revving in neutral.

Good luck.

[carboman]

Thanks. Bad thing is I had to disable the switch to get the engine to run on all 6 cylinders At least in the driveway and not under load.

The local evinrude shop here which is good told me its a combination of the switch, pressure on the prop and a clutch dog dropping out in the gearcase.

What really surprised me is that there is no cam where the switch snaps into its bracket to actuate it. If I didn't disable it (made it closed al the time) I could never get up to see and the engine was idling way to low and cutting out and off when going in an out of forward and reverse.

I'll know more tomorrow when I put it in the water.

Thanks!!!

[carboman]

Worked awesome! Going to leave the switch forced closed and keep an eye on it.

[Solarman]

The switch is to prevent revving above 3k in neutral, if it's the shift sensor.

Good luck.

[carboman]

I agree. I have looked and looked, and can't see where or how the switch is activated.

I would expect some type of cam on the shift linkage close to the switch to activate it.

Does yours have this cam?

[Solarman]

Ok, when shifting into forward, or reverse, the button should be pushed. Yes, the cam is the shift cable itself. When cable moves forward, or cable moves backward it should move upward to depress the switch. If in neutral the cable should be at it's lowest point, and not depressing the switch. this switch was installed to limit RPMs in neutral, as some owners like to rev motors too high with no load. I don't think it was intended to stop firing half the motor if RPMs are low, or at idle, only when going over 3k RPMs. The rest of time the motor (I thought) should fire on all cylinders? The clutch dog in the gear case slides back and forth only from neutral position into forward, or reverse at neutral RPMs, if warm up lever is engaged it won't/ not supposed to shift. This sensor/switch doesn't control shifting at all.

You may have a linkage not adjusted properly. When warmup position is engaged then the switch should limit RPMs, or drop one side from firing. Not when sitting in neutral idling (warmup not engaged)?

Just remembered, this switch you found, you may have another in the controls that work with the one on the motor? Look up the parts list for your control/ binnacle, it may be that one that is bad, not working. Or, it may be all in the linkages.

Post back when able, take a look at how linkages work with switch, including warmup position. No, the motor doesn't have to be running, To examine how linkages work.

Good luck.