1982 50HP SeaHorse Won't Fire Up

[kayrecs]

I recently purchased an old boat on craigslist and spent the day yesterday cleaning her up and trying to get it to start. I fogged the cylinders with WD40 and put in new plugs. It turns over freely and seems to have ok compression from turning the engine over with the new plugs in. I was told the solenoid was bad so I replaced it along with a new ignition switch due to the missing key. It has a brand new battery and fresh premium fuel in a new can. The hose was leaking a little at the connections at the needles, but it was getting fuel and had a firm bulb. Turns over really strong, but doesn't seem to be getting a spark by testing it with the plug out of the cylinder.

Here is a video of me trying to start it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B2g9...ature=youtu.be

The cables in the control housing are rough, but they will move and actuate the levers in the motor.

It's a 1982 Johnson Sea Horse 50HP.

I obviously cannot afford to take it to the marina and pay out the butt to have them get it going and risk being scammed by not knowing much about marine engines. I am not afraid to get in to it and do some wrenching, but at the same time in anyone here or would recommend someone in the DFW area that may be able to help, I'd be willing to pay a little something.

Thanks for the help!

[Solarman]

Are you pre-mixing 2 stroke oil and gas, it does have to have both, i'm thinking 50:1 to start.

You might need to check under the flywheel, if three boat has been sitting up for long time, it could need some tlc. Careful pulling flywheel, bolts on puller can damage magneto if they go in to deep (1/2” to 3/4” max, leave large nut at end of crankshaft threads, tighten better puller bolt as tight as need, smack puller bolt with hammer, tighten puller bolt and repeat till flywheel pops. Clean and inspect all parts.

Then you should check all write connections from magneto to rectifier, to plugs, making sure all are clean an snug.

Post back when able, let us know how it's going. Good luck.

[kayrecs]

Great News!

I followed the old black wire with the yellow stripe to a harness where it appeared to turn into a black wire connected to the smaller lower post on the side on the new solenoid and moved it carefully out of the way, turned the key (of course with a hose hooked up) and it fired right up!! I let it run for a second and the speed was all over the place despite not touching the throttle at all. When I turned the key to shut it off - nothing - It was still running a varying speeds.

I disconnected the negative terminal from the battery and still nothing! It had been running for about a minute at this point so I just unclipped the fuel line and let her run out of gas.. I grabbed my phone just in time to capture it running for a few seconds and then dying out.

I was electrocuted by the metal of the control box just as a side note. The previous owner had installed an auto zone on/off switch in place of the run/stop switch which had gone bad so I just connected the 2 wires to defeat the switch all together.

So, with that.. What do I do now? Should I be replacing the wiring harness?

How difficult is it to change out the control cables and adjust on this thing? I have a feeling it needs it.

Would anyone recommend using sea foam or anything like it to "clean" it out?

Once again, thanks for the help. I am excited to have this thing out on the lake this summer!

P.S. I didn't take the flywheel off and I am burning premium pump gas mixed with lucas 2cyl oil at 50:1

Here is a video of the boat running:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUQX...ature=youtu.be

[Solarman]

I'm not sure of your wiring. You should buy a service manual for your motor, a good investment, as you need the wiring schematics, and other info the book can help you with.

The small posts on the solenoid are the low voltage coil posts, that side energizes the solenoid inside that makes contacts connect the large posts, sending current to the starter, this makes the starter spin the flywheel.

If the kill switch is bad (at controls) you should replace it. Otherwise, put another switch there to kill motor for now (if previous switch works connect back up.).
If key switch is hooked up right, your hot wiring the (auto zone) switch, may have disabled the key turning off the motor (it may be wired with kill switch wires?).

The control cables are not hard to replace. Look where they go into the motor, and track them to the linkages, take a few pics, of how connected, and mounted. New phones are great for reinstalling things like this.
Notice what position controls are in, should be straight up, centered, if single handle?
If two handles, short one in middle (shifter- neutral), tall one pulled all way back (throttle- lowest speed- idle). The throttle cable connects to the linkages for the carb(s). I also need to know if the throttle falls back (to a lower idle) when cable is disconnected (might be able to tell by the pics you'll post here).

Ok, now you should post a pic of your controls, and a pic of your cables to show me how their mounted and connected to linkages (take hood off, don't have xray vision-lol) a good clear pic of that side of motor I can zoom in on.

Ok, good luck for now, post those pics, and we can move on.