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1960 5.5hp seahorse (CD-17)

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  • 1960 5.5hp seahorse (CD-17)

    Hi all. I have a 1960 5.5hp seahorse that pulls but doesn't start. Just got my hands on it cheap, old owner says it ran 2 years ago but has been sitting in his barn since. Gas/oil is probably varnish by now. I intend on ignition/carb tuneup and a new impeller. This will be my 1st time doing a tune up on an outboard so I may be back for some advice. 1st thing I've noticed is that nothing happens when I push/pull on the choke lever. As far as I can tell, I don't think it's connected to anything and I don't have any reference as to how it should look when set up correctly. I was going to take it to a marina that advertised Johnson/Evinrude service but found out they've lost their mechanic to the ND oilfields. Anyway, would anyone happen to have a photo/video (or link), that might help?

  • #2
    A very old motor, 1960. but, think I'd select cleaning the carb first. You should be able to look at choke setup, or maybe a parts pic (if can find that, or repair manual) to see how choke works, and can mix a little gas & oil in spray bottle (25 to 1, for that old a motor), squirt into carb, and pull to see if it will fire up (have water on impeller anytime you're turning it over-bucket), unless air cooled? Some were way back then?

    Good luck, keep us posted.

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    • #3
      Thanks Solarman. I will give that a shot. Found a nicked plug wire so I may go ahead and replace the plugs & wires as well. I'll have the lower end in water when I try to start it. I cannot find a decent pic of how the choke lever looks when assembled properly. Got my hands on a Selenoc manual but it only has an exploded view. Just wondering if anyone out there has one of these or one with a similar type I carb that might be able to take and post a photo of the linkage.
      Obliged

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      • #4
        I'm not thinking there are many still out there.
        Possibly, you might take a good pic from the side, so we can see the choke, and carb. Maybe we can offer some ideas from the pic?

        Good luck.

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        • #5
          Why didn't I think of that?! Will do so after work.
          Thanks!

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          • #6
            I'll have to retake long shot of choke knob & carb. Should the silver tab, (spring loaded), nestle in the brass fork above it in the pics? Hope the jpg files are small enough to send.
            Attached Files
            Last edited by stepover55; 04-03-2015, 01:59 AM.

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            • #7
              Long shots of the choke knob.
              stepover55
              Attached Files

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              • #8
                Check which way the silver tab (choke butterfly) turns. If it does not turn counter clockwise, then it must turn clockwise and fit above, in the fork of the brass lever. Usually a choke butterfly will only turn about 90°. The spring looks pretty heavy duty. Let me know if it turns differently, and how far it turns.
                Might help to see a full choke view, with choke out. And, on the opposite side of the carb, is there anything on that choke butterfly shaft? If so give me a view/ pic of that too. And an entire pic of brass choke lever in open (out) position.
                i'm trying to understand the reason for that front notch in the brass lever, possibly a spring, or linkage that might pull the choke butterfly? So the way it turns is important.

                Post back when able.
                Last edited by Solarman; 04-03-2015, 08:57 AM.

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                • #9
                  Thanks Solarman. Will take the pics at lunchtime. Meantime, just got off of the phone with the parts guy at the marina w/o a mechanic. I'm going to take the engine out there tomorrow morning to see if he can shed a little light on the setup. I had a pic with the knob all the way out but it was over
                  2 mb & wouldn't upload.

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                  • #10
                    Don't need the knob included, just area of brass plate/ linkage, and look at other side of carb for any linkages on that same shaft (with spring).

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                    • #11
                      Well, have an update. Visited the marina with the motor in the back of my pickup. Seems that there are two shafts that run through the carb for the throttle & choke that should each have a tab nestled into a notch on the brass plate that slides back & forth when the choke knob is pushed/pulled & when the throttle is turned. Finally found a view of how the assembly should look in a youtube video: "1962 Johnson 3hp restore Part 9". Everything that should move in my carb is frozen & the tab that should be in the more forward slot on the plate may be snapped off. PB Blaster'd everything last night & will see if anything moves this morning. Then I'll pull the carb & see if it can be rebuilt or I may be ordering a new one,
                      (~$80 at marineEngine.com). Happy Easter!

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                      • #12
                        Thanx for the update. That was the reason I asked for the full open choke pic. I had questions about that front slot. They only did notches and slots for a purpose back then. Glad you were able to get some help.

                        Good luck. I believe that motor will run again.

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                        • #13
                          Found a carb body on ebay for $38 incl shipping. A replacement shaft was $48. Needle valves were both good. Need to replace the old float. Head's not warped, pistons look good. Cleaned them up & took an air hose to the water jacket, no corrosion. Thermostat seemed ok but will change it anyway. I'll take the flywheel off tomorrow and check out the points, etc... Did find the broken piece off the choke shaft in the engine pan. None of the gaskets looked too bad, almost like it had been serviced not that long ago. Wondering whether or not to attempt to change out the impeller. Easy or difficult?

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                          • #14
                            Check flywheel also when off, don't need anything loose under there as old as it is.
                            Yes, probably should check/ replace impeller, before using in river, but can wait till running before attempting. I don't think it'll be too difficult, does that model have shift rod connector to separate?

                            Good luck, sounds like you're doing great.

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