Slow speed neele valve rebuild? 1976 Johnson 35 hp Model 35E76S

[jamesfontenot]

I cleaned the carburetor and replaced its gaskets . I will reclean the carb since the motor cuts off after running about 20 seconds. This may be partially due to the filter cap of the fuel pump being cracked. Fuel sprays out of the crack when I press the fuel line bulb. I have to press the fuel line bulb to keep the motor running. During this short running period, the motor ran at a very high rpm level once so I cut it off. Next time I started it the it ran at a much lower rpm level. Not sure of why it ran at such different rpm levels? Could this be due to the neelle valve? When I try to adust the needle valve nothing happens with the motors idling speed. I removed the needle valve and the retainer just crumbled so i will replace it. Is there anything else that goes onto the needle valve besides the retainer. There are several pieces in the carburetor kit that I don't know where they go. There is a small plastic funnel shaped piece in the carb kit that may go onto the tip of the needle valve? Not sure though. Can I clean inside of where the needle valve fits with a small wire? Thanks to anyone who can help me!

[Rebel Sympathy]

Well, first of all, you are not going to really clean a carb without taking it completey apart and submerging it in carb cleaner for an hour and then blowing it out with air. This includes removing the jet from the bowl.

If it is leaking when you squeeze the bulb, you have a bad fuel pump cap which can suck air where it leaks when running. This could be the source of all your problems. Replace the cap.

The red retainer is the only thing that goes into the needle valve bore.

There are extra parts in a carb kit which apply to different applications.

Very high engine rpms at idle position indicate a lean condition. Sometimes motors (especially 2-cylinder 40-50-55hp loopers) will "run away". If that happens, pull the plug wires quickly. If that fails to stop the run away, then jam a rag into the carb throats. Duck your head, in case you are too slow in reacting when the shrapnel starts flying.....

I hate to have to tell you this, but the 1976 35hp Johnson/Evinrude was probably the very worst outboard OMC ever made. It had terrible overheating problems. There was a recall in which the lower gear case housing was changed to increase the chance of good water flow into the lower unit and water pump (not all owners had this done); the ignition plate/mag plate was prone to wear very quickly and we could not keep the points set right on the motor for more than a very short time. In other words, the motor would never stay in tune. Avoid a 1976 35hp if at all possible.

But, the 1970's series OMC 35hp is a story with a happy ending. 1977 went to CD ignition and it was instantly a better motor, about equal in 1978 and 79. In 1980-81 the gear case changed to an altogether better/stronger design. In 1984 (last year of the 35 in the lower 48 states), the gearcase was further improved to a long-shank pinion gear with much better pinion bearing support AND the lower unit contained 3-dog gears instead of the earlier 2-dog gears. This 1984 "ultimate" gearcase design was used for years thereafter in the 25 and 30 hp motors. To me, the 1984 35hp was one of the best OMC motors ever made - and it is my personal favorite outboard of all time. (In fact, I have four of them.) They have noticeably more hp than the 25-30hp, due to a different style intake porting in the block. Some say they were underrated @ 35hp. Maybe so - they would outrun 40hp Mercs. And, with normal care, they are totally reliable. Like many fighter planes of WW-II, the first (1976) OMC 35's were disasters and the final (1984) version was a mangificent machine.

By the way...... to all who read this post: About 1985 OMC tried to go with 100:1 oiling ratio for the 25-30hp motors. This lasted thru about 1990. It was too extreme. Stick with 50:1. If all you ever did was idle your motor, then 100:1 would be OK. But, it is NOT OK for normal operation. So, stick to 50:1 regardless of what your motor decals and owner's manual states. This also applies to any other horsepower small OMC motor of that era.

[jamesfontenot]

Well, first of all, you are not going to really clean a carb without taking it completey apart and submerging it in carb cleaner for an hour and then blowing it out with air. This includes removing the jet from the bowl.

If it is leaking when you squeeze the bulb, you have a bad fuel pump cap which can suck air where it leaks when running. This could be the source of all your problems. Replace the cap.

The red retainer is the only thing that goes into the needle valve bore.

There are extra parts in a carb kit which apply to different applications.

Very high engine rpms at idle position indicate a lean condition. Sometimes motors (especially 2-cylinder 40-50-55hp loopers) will "run away". If that happens, pull the plug wires quickly. If that fails to stop the run away, then jam a rag into the carb throats. Duck your head, in case you are too slow in reacting when the shrapnel starts flying.....

I hate to have to tell you this, but the 1976 35hp Johnson/Evinrude was probably the very worst outboard OMC ever made. It had terrible overheating problems. There was a recall in which the lower gear case housing was changed to increase the chance of good water flow into the lower unit and water pump (not all owners had this done); the ignition plate/mag plate was prone to wear very quickly and we could not keep the points set right on the motor for more than a very short time. In other words, the motor would never stay in tune. Avoid a 1976 35hp if at all possible.

But, the 1970's series OMC 35hp is a story with a happy ending. 1977 went to CD ignition and it was instantly a better motor, about equal in 1978 and 79. In 1980-81 the gear case changed to an altogether better/stronger design. In 1984 (last year of the 35 in the lower 48 states), the gearcase was further improved to a long-shank pinion gear with much better pinion bearing support AND the lower unit contained 3-dog gears instead of the earlier 2-dog gears. This 1984 "ultimate" gearcase design was used for years thereafter in the 25 and 30 hp motors. To me, the 1984 35hp was one of the best OMC motors ever made - and it is my personal favorite outboard of all time. (In fact, I have four of them.) They have noticeably more hp than the 25-30hp, due to a different style intake porting in the block. Some say they were underrated @ 35hp. Maybe so - they would outrun 40hp Mercs. And, with normal care, they are totally reliable. Like many fighter planes of WW-II, the first (1976) OMC 35's were disasters and the final (1984) version was a mangificent machine.

By the way...... to all who read this post: About 1985 OMC tried to go with 100:1 oiling ratio for the 25-30hp motors. This lasted thru about 1988. It was too extreme. Stick with 50:1. If all you ever did was idle your motor, then 100:1 would be OK. But, it is NOT OK for normal operation. So, stick to 50:1 regardless of what your motor decals and owner's manual states. This also applies to any other horsepower small OMC motor of that era.

Thanks for your help Rebel. I already ordered the fuel cap, new points and condensers, and a thermostat. I'll install the new parts and see what happens. I got this motor from my father in law so I have nothing invested into the motor except about $130 in parts. If I can't get the motor to run well, I'll just get another one. Maybe the 1984 one that you mentioned if I can find one. Thanks again. I'm a rebel myself as my 3rd great grand paw served the 6th Louisiana infantry with Stonewall Jackson.

[Rebel Sympathy]

Thanks for the kind words. While I am a true Son of the South, my handle was actually bestowed upon me right after the November 2008 presidential election. In other words, it had nothing to do with the North and South per se. More to do with my disagreement with the polices our new administration intended to impose upon our nation..... I prefer a generous portion of personal liberty - and nobody telling me how I can think or talk.