Startup sequence - '96 Johnson 115Hp for new owner

[newimaging]

Hi guys, I was wondering if someone can help me with the best start sequence they use to get the engine started. Just bought the boat and have to turn it over for almost 1-2 minutes to get it started when cold.
I know some people give it full throttle then pull back to almost above idle before turning the key,... any wisdom for that engine would be appreciated. Thanks

[Joe Reeves]

That model would incorporate the "Fast Start" electronic feature which advances the spark automatically/electronically to obtain a higher idle rpm which cuts out when the engine reaches a certain temperature.... No need to advance the throttle.

Looking at the powerhead (remove the hood)... you'll see a small black solenoid that has a RED pointer at one end of it. That is a primer solenoid that when engaged by pushing the key inwards when in the ON or START position allows fuel to bypass the carburetors and for the fuel flow to be directly into the intake manifold area. There are no choke butterflies BUT look upon this Fuel Primer Solenoid as if it were a electric choke as it serves the same purpose.
**********
NOTE that the RED lever on that fuel primer solenoid "must" be pointed at the other end of that solenoid for it to be in the automatic (prime when key is pushed in0 position.

To have that RED lever turned 180 degrees away from the solenoid would allow the fuel mixture to bypass the carburetors and flow whenever the fuel primer bulb is pressed or if the engine is running.... used in that position only when a hand starting/pull rope situation may be encountered.
**********

Now.... With that little bit of knowledge encountered, a proper starting procedure would be:

1- Make sure that Red lever on the fuel primer solenoid is facing the other (automatic) end.
2 - Pump the fuel primer bulb until it is hard, full of fuel.
3 - Turn the key to the START position... and push the key in to prime the engine as it cranks over.
4 - The engine should start within six (6) revolutions, a little high in rpms for a short time, then at a certain point (warmed up) the rpms should drop to a normal idle.

Let us know how you make out.

[newimaging]

Thank you for all that info. Looks like I have a bad crank starter motor, it doesn`t spin fast enough to intersect gears with the flywheel suddenly. So could have been that it was always on its last leg, not turning over fast enough and thats what made the turn over too hard to archive. Ordered a new one, will replace tomorrow.

[Joe Reeves]

Test the electric starter by using a good known fully charged battery and good known jumper cables directly to the electric starter. If that results in a proper cranking speed, then obviously the electric starter is okay.

The engine must turn over at least 300 rpm in order for the stator to energize the powerpack.

Before ordering a new $$$ electric starter...... that problem is usually caused by either a bad battery, a good but under charged battery, BUT usually it's just a loose cable OR a tight but dirty cable, and if so...... remove and thoroughly clean all cables pertaining to the electric starting system including the battery terminals and the ground at the powerhead... also clean the component they attach to. tighten with a wrench or pliers, not your fingers if wing nuts are encountered.

Hmmm, too late, I see that you already ordered one. If not needed, hopefully you can return it.

Let us know what you find.

[newimaging]

Thanks guys, I put a new starter motor in, and it started up with the first crank Go the DB Electrical amazon starter for $82, took about 5 minutes to change it, and it's been working like a charm. Thanks again for the suggestions and input.