Removing VRO from a '69 40hp

[BoatingNewb]

Disclaimer; I'm brand spanking new to boats & two strokes. I don't know the proper terms for a lot of things. Please bear with me

The quick version;
1969 (I think) Johnson 40 VRO w/electric start. Hasn't run in 20+ years. Turns over by hand. Fresh fuel and 40:1 premix. VRO oil tank missing & hose adapter on engine is plugged off (as received, I didn't do that). Plug in tank, prime bulb 4 times, bit of fuel out the top of the VRO assembly. Tap the prime at the key 6 times, high idle up, crank and it fires. Will only keep running if I tap the prime button, and it doesn't seem to be pulling fuel up. Eventually even tapping the prime will not keep the engine running. I see a bit of fuel on the top of the tank, expect the quick-connection o-ring is cracked. See the plastic filter next to the engine block is empty again (it was 1/2 full when I primed it). From this I suspect the VRO is not pulling fuel, ruptured diaphram? I also think the connection at the now 40 year old fitting at the tank is leaking. BTW I'm using a hose adapter to cool it, she's still on the trailer.

My question; Can I install a carb-type electric pump (3psi or so), premix and remove the VRO system completely? I'm not interested in sinking $400+ into replacing the VRO system, lines, tank, etc.

Thanks so much.

[boats.net]

It has to be newer than 1969 as VRO started in 1984, model number will tell the year.
Probably will need to remove and clean carbs and replace VRO pump with 5007422 Pre Mix conversion kit and use a 50:1 oil mix in gas.

[BoatingNewb]

Thank you very much for the response. It seemed too clean for being a '69. I tried to get the model year through the model number but obviously I'm using the wrong book. I took a bunch of pictures of it, and went ahead and removed the VRO assembly this evening, then proceeded to drop all the screws in the grass, in the dark.

A few more questions, if I may;

-Starboard side there's a red lever attached to a cylinder on the side of the block. That cylinder appears to be getting fuel from the 3-way split (other two feed the carbs). What is this? And what position should it be in?
-I've recorded the model and serial numbers below. If anyone can tell me what year this engine is (and any other details) it'd be much appreciated.
-Is there a source for online service manuals for these engines, so I can find my own answers?

As for the kit, I'm simply not in a position to put a $400 part into it. This thing fell in my lap. I've sourced a few electric carburetor fuel pumps putting 2-4psi & 30gph, which should be plenty, and is far cheaper. It also eliminates needing to prime a bulb

MOD. No. J40ELCDE
SER No. C7203XXX

Outboard Marine Corporation
CANADA



(Clickable thumbnails to high resolution photos)

[BoatingNewb]

(More images in case they help)
Thank you again,

[boats.net]

That cylinder is your primer (choke) for cold start. The red point of the lever should be pointing to the base of the cylinder like it shows in the pic. You model is a 1986. The following link should assist you with the manual.

Original outboard product and service manuals for Johnson, Evinrude, Gale, and OMC

[BoatingNewb]

Good to know, thanks.


Can I bypass the fuel pumps temporarily by suspending the fuel tank above the motor, letting gravity pull the fuel down?

I'm very sorry for the pestering questions, but I truly appreciate the help!

[boats.net]

Not sure that will work on those models.

[BoatingNewb]

Just to be certain, I took apart the fuel pump and did not find any issues with the diaphram. I reassembled it, put it back on the motor, and primed it. It did not leak out of the top anymore, but it still doesn't seem to be pulling fuel. I did find my tank was not venting properly, but even with the cap off it's not drawing fuel.

I'm at my whits end, and am researching electric fuel pumps at this time. Good units are listing around $75-150. I'm not comfortable with a no-name fuel pump on the water for obvious reasons.

[Daviet]

Not a wise move to install an electric fuel pump on that outboard, no way to control the fuel flow if you have a fuel leak or a broken hose.
Have you thought about converting it to a standard pulse type fuel pump? I beleave that on that engine it is easy to do.

[BoatingNewb]

Not a wise move to install an electric fuel pump on that outboard, no way to control the fuel flow if you have a fuel leak or a broken hose.
Have you thought about converting it to a standard pulse type fuel pump? I beleave that on that engine it is easy to do.

It has the VRO section disabled, so it's running as a standard pulse pump. While I have zero issues with running electric pump I've discovered I'm barking up the wrong tree completely. I assumed because I did not see fuel in my filter that the carbs were running dry, but this didn't quite make sense as I can keep the engine running with the prime solenoid. I pulled the carbs today, took the bowls off and discovered the passage that lets fuel to the idle circuit was plugged right at the drain bolt. I took a piece of copper wire and snaked the path of both carbs. I did the upper jet too (marked 40 on mine). Primed the bulb, idle up and with no prime button at all she fired immediately & idled quite well. No parts needed, just had to get that varnish outta there.

Thank you again for the assistance. Gotta register this old boat and enjoy the little bit of season I've got left.

Cheers,

[Daviet]

If you had that much varnish build up, you might want to think about removing the carb and give it a good cleaning, there's bound to be varnish in other places.