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I have a 71 50hp model 50ESL71S. PO said it didn't have spark and needed a stator. I soon found out that the coil housings were also cracked, the regulator/rectifier had two frayed wires, and that the timing plate sensor was mangled from riding on the flywheel. So, I replaced all that, the water pump, and rebuilt the carbs. Still no spark. I finally got my service manual in the mail the other day and did some testing.
After doing some testing with my multimeter, everything checks out good except the power pack... I went through steps of the bench test for the power pack and made it all the way to the very last step.
Per the manual:
Step 6
Set ohmmeter to high ohms scale. Touch leads to terminals #6 and #7. Note reading and reverse leads, note reading again.
A. Both meter readings must be the same and read between 300 and 10,000 ohms.
1. If they are, pack is good.
2. If they are not, pack is faulty.
So, I set the meter to high ohms scale (x1000) and it read to zero with leads in both positions. I switched to the low ohms setting and it read 180 ohms in both positions.
I also had the old power pack (the PO replaced it trying to fix the spark problem). I tested it and the result was the same. All circuits were good except step 6. On the low ohm setting, it read 110 ohms.
So, are both power packs bad? How is a brand new power pack bad?
Terminals 6 and 7 connect to the timing plate wires.
I also checked the grounds to the coils, power pack, and regulator/recitifier. All showed zero resistance.
All I can figure out is that maybe the bad rectifier/regulator killed the old and new power packs, so it isn't processing the signal from the timing plate. And of course, the power pack is one of the most expensive parts, and the only ignition part I haven't replaced.
Just want to see what you guys think before I drop another $100 on it.
Thanks
After doing some testing with my multimeter, everything checks out good except the power pack... I went through steps of the bench test for the power pack and made it all the way to the very last step.
Per the manual:
Step 6
Set ohmmeter to high ohms scale. Touch leads to terminals #6 and #7. Note reading and reverse leads, note reading again.
A. Both meter readings must be the same and read between 300 and 10,000 ohms.
1. If they are, pack is good.
2. If they are not, pack is faulty.
So, I set the meter to high ohms scale (x1000) and it read to zero with leads in both positions. I switched to the low ohms setting and it read 180 ohms in both positions.
I also had the old power pack (the PO replaced it trying to fix the spark problem). I tested it and the result was the same. All circuits were good except step 6. On the low ohm setting, it read 110 ohms.
So, are both power packs bad? How is a brand new power pack bad?
Terminals 6 and 7 connect to the timing plate wires.
I also checked the grounds to the coils, power pack, and regulator/recitifier. All showed zero resistance.
All I can figure out is that maybe the bad rectifier/regulator killed the old and new power packs, so it isn't processing the signal from the timing plate. And of course, the power pack is one of the most expensive parts, and the only ignition part I haven't replaced.
Just want to see what you guys think before I drop another $100 on it.
Thanks
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