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  • Different Question About Overheating

    Hello guys. I really need your help,

    I am Saturday, DYI mechanic who has just been summoned by a close relative who bought a boat as part of a bucket list, and has no means to deal with the overheating of its Motor (1988 110 HP Johnson, 2 Stroke, Model# J110TLCCA). I noticed the very little flow of water coming out of its pee hole, and the almost total lack of pressure, and immediately assumed the impeller had gone bad, but upon removing the lower unit I found it to be fine, and I believe it pumps normally from the limited tests I have ran. I also believe there is a good connection between the top of the pump and the tube that moves the water up to the motor, however, when I blow compressed air up this tube, I hear it coming out somewhere inside the unit (it seems at the base of the actual motor), and almost none comes out the pee hole. Even when I removed the hoses that connect the heads to "divider" in the lower part of the engine assembly, no air comes in or out of these connections when I blow air from the lower unit.

    Given these facts, I would appreciate your take on any of the following questions:
    - How much water should come out of the pee hole for one of these engines?
    - Is there an approximate normal pressure for the pee water?
    - Is there any other path or outlet for the cooling water to take once it is sent upwards from the pump?

    Any help will be much appreciated.
    Infante

  • #2
    First, the Pee Hole is no real accurate indication that the motor is not pumping. If the pee hole is plugged, the motor will simply dump the water out the exhaust stack.
    To clear the pee hole take your air compressor nozzle and blow air up the pee hole from the outside bung while the motor is running.
    If the motor is running hot while the w/p is working well, then the next culprits are likely the twin thermostats, located under the exhaust cover in the dead center back of the motor. They can be a PITA to get to. First, you will have to drop down the "motor pan" to access the 5-6 bolts that hold the cover on. But first, if this is a salt water motor, then you need to have the ol' "blue-tip wrench" handy to first heat the bolts a glowing orange color. As they cool, you can gently work each bolt back and forth until you get them loose. If you break 'em off, then you get to pull the whole powerhead and spend some bucks at the machine shop having the broken studs pulled.
    I do not like 110 motors, late 115 cross-flow motors and I do not like 140 motors. They have the "pregnant belly" tuned exhaust cover and they do not live as long as a "flat-back" 85-90-115 engines. If a motor has a flat-back exhaust cover and has had the original "high-ring" pistons replaced with updated pistons, then they are great motors.

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